Stone, Vine & Embers

Charcoal, coastal wine, and the art of the grill

The day begins on foot, along the dramatic Flysch cliffs of Zumaia, where layers of stone rise from the sea at Itzurun beach. This stretch of coast, shaped by deep time, follows the original coastal Way of St. James—walked since the late 8th century—and has more recently served as a natural stage for contemporary storytelling.

From stone and sea, the journey continues toward Getaria, a small harbor town whose influence has always exceeded its size. From these shores sailed some of the most renowned Basque navigators, men who helped redraw the known world, and here was born Cristóbal Balenciaga, whose vision would later shape modern fashion. A place where precision, discipline and an instinctive understanding of form have long been part of daily life.

Beyond the port, vineyards climb the surrounding slopes, where txakoli has been grown for generations, exposed to Atlantic winds and salt air. Below, fishing boats return with the day’s catch, often just hours before it reaches the table.

At the harbor, fish is grilled over open charcoal in the open air, guided by a simple, exacting knowledge rooted in place. Paired with local wine and shaped by proximity, season and restraint, the meal reflects a coastal culture where sea, land and human craft remain inseparable.

“A place shaped by time and tasted in the present. Stone underfoot, vines at eye level, fire at the harbor table”.

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